Search Results for: ‘"west ridge"’

Everest’s West Ridge, World Water Day, and Why Am I Here?

Tom Hornbein on the West Ridge, 1963 I’m about to head out the door on my seventh Everest expedition, this …

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I was 10 years old when I…

I was 10 years old when I first saw the North Face of Everest, on a poster given to me by Lou Whittaker from his successful 1984 expedition that saw Phil Ershler become the first American to reach the summit from the north. I was smitten, intrigued by this mountain, and especially by the north side – austere, harsh, remote, and steeped in history from the pre-World War II era. The poster hung over my bed for years back home in Massachusetts, came with me to college in Colorado years later, always there as a reminder of a place I’d love to visit. I finally got there in 1999 for what would turn out to be a life-changing and mind-blowing expedition, focused not on the summit but on the history of Everest and it’s greatest mystery. At the time, I felt blessed to get to Everest at all – let alone for such a great trip with an amazing team – and never thought I’d become somewhat of a repeat offender, with subsequent expeditions to the Northeast Ridge in 2001, 2003, and 2004, to the Southeast Ridge in 2002 and 2009, and the West Ridge in 2012. And, now, 20 years after my first visit, I’m packing bags and getting ready for my 8th expedition to this amazing mountain, returning once again to the Northeast Ridge. Exciting, nerve wracking (I’m guessing 45 will feel different than 25!), and incredibly lucky. Can’t wait to gaze upon this view again, taken in 2003 from above camp at the North Col, 23,000 feet, looking at the might of the North Face. #liveyouradventure @eddiebauer #Everest #bestmountainartists

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It’s with great sadness I learned this…

It’s with great sadness I learned this morning of the passing of Norman Dyhrenfurth at age 99 at home in Salzburg. I got to know Norman first by legend as the leader of and cinematographer for the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition and producer of the film “Americans on Everest,” and I’d much later get to know him personally through our 2012 film about that expedition, “High and Hallowed: Everest 1963.” The son of climbers and explorers, Norman came to the mountains naturally, and left his mark. He was a member of the 1952 Swiss Everest Expedition – which nearly reached the summit – and then led an attempt on Lhotse in 1955, and filmed the first ascent of Dhaulagiri in 1960. But, it was the 1963 American expedition which garnered him the most notoreity and respect, and for good reason. The team was incredibly strong, and well-led by Norman, and achieved huge success with putting Jim Whittaker on top as the first American (with Nawang Gombu) on May 1, and then seeing Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein reach the summit via the unclimbed West Ridge on the 22nd, just hours after Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad climbed from the Southeast Ridge. Norman’s expedition film was a huge success, and – like the West Ridge climb – ushered in a new era of possibility in high-altitude cinema. Norman also was a ski instructor in New Hampshire, Dean of the UCLA Film School, and a groundbreaking legend in the mountains throughout his long life. He will be dearly missed, but his legacy will live on and continue to inspire. Namaste, Norman. #liveyouradventure @eddiebauer #lostlegend | In this photo, taken in 1963 by Barry Corbet, Norman shares the camera with Nepali children en route to #Everest.

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I remember first meeting @cm back in…

I remember first meeting @cm back in 1993. I was a freshman at Colorado College, and he was an illustrious alum back in town to share stories from his recent climb of K2. I was then – as now – awestruck at a person who could be so accomplished, and yet so humble. As the years passed, I got to know Charley a bit better, eventually sharing a rope with him on climbs in our backyard, and eventually on some bigger trips like our attempt on Everest’s West Ridge. Throughout, Mace’s humble, can-do attitude has shone through, a smile and a laugh at the ready whether we’re dodging hail and lightning a couple pitches up in Clear Creek Canyon, sharing near misses in the Khumbu Icefall, or free forming it on a stunning day in New Zealand, like in this picture from the Remarkables. There are few people I’d rather tie in with, who I’d trust more in any situation, at any time, in any place, with the bond climbers share. Thanks, Charley, for so many good times, and here’s to a Happy Birthday and many more trips around the sun! #liveyouradventure #happybirthday

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Sending big happy birthday wishes to @conrad_anker…

Sending big happy birthday wishes to @conrad_anker today. I’ve had the honor and pleasure to be on #Everest with Conrad 3 times (1999 on our first expedition, 2003 for the wacky Global Extremes reality TV series, and 2012 when we were both trying to climb the West Ridge), I’ve gazed up – with wonder and a bit of terror – at the route he pioneered up the Shark’s Fin on Meru with @jimmy_chin and @renan_ozturk, and watched with deep admiration as he’s leveraged his clout and notoriety to make our world a better place through @khumbuclimbingcenter and more. He’s an astonishing, visionary alpinist, a dedicated steward of our world, and a great guy. Happy Birthday, Conrad, and here’s to many more trips around the sun! | In this photo, Conrad waits for the first rays of sun to bring some warmth to the frigid world of 28,000 feet on the Northeast Ridge of Everest on May 17, 1999. #liveyouradventure #happybirthday

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On my first trip to the Southeast…

On my first trip to the Southeast Ridge of Everest, I made a few hour foray from Basecamp o a rest day to check out this cool, rock spire far down the Khumbu Glacier. I didn’t have gear with me to climb it, so made do with bouldering at the base and enjoying the solitude, figuring erroneously it had never been visited, or climbed. It wasn’t until I got to know the amazing Tom Hornbein years later that I found out it had been climbed, by Hornbein and Barry Corbet on a similar foray some 39 years before. While insignificant as a climb, their small, fun ascent represents the ethic of the 1963 “West Ridgers” on Everest which I so admire: they were there not simply to get a summit, but rather for the adventure of the climb, a step into the unknown, the embrace of uncertainty and all the possibilities it opens up. Their climb of this little pinnacle pales in comparison to the historic ascent of the West Ridge, made 2 months later by Tom and Willi Unsoeld; but the underlying ethic, the desire to pursue a life of exploration, uncertainty, risk, and reward, is equal. Turning 86 today, Tom still embodies this ethic, on the mountain and off, whether hitting the trails and crags of Rocky Mountain National Park or taking piano lessons at home. Sending great birthday wishes to a hero of mine, a true inspiration, and one we can all learn from. #liveyouradventure #happybirthday

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Four years ago, I was in quite…

Four years ago, I was in quite a different place: rappelling from just below the West Shoulder on #Everest with @davidcmorton after our final, failed attempt to get into the West Ridge. It was the last effort of a long-but-great expedition trying to tell the story of 1963 and the historic West Ridge climb by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld. While we weren’t even close to successful in climbing the route, we were able to produce an award-winning film, High & Hallowed: Everest 1963, which hopefully shed some renewed light on an oft-forgotten, monumental ascent of a highly challenging route. (If you haven’t seen it and would like to, High & Hallowed is available on @vimeo on demand – link in my profile.) Incidentally, rising from the clouds behind Dave in this photo is #Lhotse, which was first climbed on this day in 1956 by a Swiss team. #liveyouradventure @charley.mace #brentbishop

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On March 13, 1961, #Ama #Dablam was…

On March 13, 1961, #Ama #Dablam was first climbed by Barry Bishop, Mike Gill, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes as part of an expedition led by Sir Edmund #Hillary. Theirs was an impressive ascent, establishing what is now the standard route up the mountain, climbing via the Southwest Ridge. | In this photo, Ama Dablam rises behind a #Tibetan #Buddhist #chorten outside the village of #Pangboche, #Nepal. #eyesofbuddha #amadablam #climbinghistory #FirstAscent #everydayasia #everydaynepal #Buddha #WeLoveMountains #mountainlove #Khumbu #solukhumbu

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Happy Birthday today to Barry Bishop, who…

Happy Birthday today to Barry Bishop, who would have been 84 on this day. Bishop was a critical member of the 1963 American Mount #Everest Expedition (#AMEE). Originally one of the “West Ridgers”, Barry dropped out of the West Ridge effort to focus on his photography for National Geographic, and ended up reaching the summit via the Southeast Ridge on May 22, 1963, with teammate Lute #Jerstad, just hours before Tom #Hornbein and Willi #Unsoeld topped out via the West Ridge. Barry, like so many climbers of that expedition, was far more than Everest, and far more than a climber. He was a hugely accomplished climber. Some of his notable ascents include: first ascent of the West Buttress of #Denali (Mt. #McKinley) in 1951; a solo of the Italian Ridge on the #Matterhorn in 1952; the first ascent of the uber-classic Southwest Ridge of Ama #Dablam in 1961 (also the first winter ascent in the #Himalaya); and, of course, climbing Everest as mentioned. Like Unsoeld, Bishop sustained severe frostbite on the epic #bivouac at 28,000 feet on Everest, and lost several toes, mostly ending his climbing career. Barry went on to earn his PhD in geography, wrote his dissertation in Humla and Jumla in western #Nepal, and earned many awards and recognitions for his photography and writing. (And, along the way, he raised one hell of a son, Brent Bishop, who has climbed Everest, Ama Dablam, and many other peaks, as well as being an amazing friend, father, and human.) Barry died tragically in a car accident in 1994. Of all his work and photography, perhaps his most iconic is this one, taken in early-May, 1963, of Hornbein and Unsoeld moving up the dramatic West Shoulder of Everest with the North Face and Summit looming beyond. This photo-animation was taken from Bishop’s photo and used in our award-winning film, High and Hallowed: Everest 1963. #liveyouradventure #highandhallowed #everest1963 #amadablam #barrybishop @eddiebauer @davidcmorton @charley.mace @jimaikman

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#tbt to May 22, 1963, high on…

#tbt to May 22, 1963, high on the West Ridge of Mount #Everest. In this photo separation from our 2013 film, High and Hallowed: Everest 1963, Tom Hornbein is seen climbing the upper sections of West Ridge during he and Willi Unsoeld’s first ascent of the route. Tom is also heard describing this part of the climb in his humble, understated way. If you haven’t seen the film, or if you want to watch it again, you can catch it now on @outsidetelevision or rent or buy it on @Vimeo (link in my profile). #liveyouradventure #highandhallowed @eddiebauer @davidcmorton @jimaikman #tomhornbein #williunsoeld #AMEE #westridge

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