Category Archive for: ‘History’

John Evans journailing in Antarctica.

Legendary Climbs of John Evans Now Available

“You should come up to Evergreen and have dinner with my brother, John, sometime. He’s done some big climbs over …

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Harvey Carter's First Ascent Records at the American Alpine Club Library

Harvey T. Carter’s climbing archive

When I first met him, I was pretty sure he was just a random drunk wandering around the Garden of …

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Photo of Teddy Norton climbing across the North Face of Everest on June 4, 1924, during his record-setting attempt on the summit. Photo by Howard Somervell.

Everest 1924: Norton & Somervell’s Record Attempt

It was not exactly difficult going, but it was a dangerous place for a single unroped climber, as one slip …

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Huntley Palmer Biscuits

Shackleton’s Biscuits: A Case for Not Eating Artifacts on Mount Everest

In 2001, high on Everest, I scoured through the tattered remains of the 1933 expedition’s Camp VI in the Yellow …

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In Memoriam: Walter Bonatti, 1930-2011

There are a few names that are synonymous with historic, legendary alpinism: Messner, Kukuczka, Buhl, etc. And, sadly, one of …

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From Everest to Blackpool: Alfred Gregory’s Work on Display & Auction

Alfred Gregory is not exactly a household name, but his work in 1953 was seen by millions around the world. …

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Keeper of the Mountains: A (Much Needed) Film on Liz Hawley

While she's never really been nice to me, she's never really been not-nice either. She's just been, well, Liz. Or …

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In Memoriam: Nawang Gombu, Everest Hero & First to Summit Everest Twice

In some ways, he was an unlikely hero. All of about 5 feet tall, Nawang Gombu – or simply Gombu …

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Earliest European view of Everest found in Kew Archives

This is pretty cool: A sketch of the Everest region, dating to roughly 1848, was recently discovered in the archives …

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A “New” Altitude Record from 1911 by Dr. Alexander Kellas

Dr. Alexander "Alec" Kellas is by no means a household name, nor is he known even to many climbers. But, …

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